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Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System
• PCB images are printed onto the film using your laser printer or photo copier
• Iron the film onto the copper clad board using an iron on a low heat
• The film is removed leaving the circuit behind ready for etching
• Supplied in packs of 5
• Size 216 x 279mm (8.5 x 11")Press and Peel transfer film is an easy way to make high quality circuit boards for hobby and small scale PCB production.
Design your PCB using standard computer design software, reverse the image and print on the film using a laser printer or copy from a magazine with the film in a photocopier.
The Copper board must be clean and free from any contaminants and then use an iron to press the image onto the board from the film (use a low heat, do not use the steam setting).
Examine the layout on the PCB for any broken or missing tracks and touch up as required and then you are ready to etch.
Normal PCB etching processes can be used to make the board ready.
ReviewsWrite a Review
4 of 4 Reviews
Don't buy this product!!! It is expensive. It really is hit or mainly miss as to whether you get a good or any transfer to the copper plate at all. Got one good result after 15 tries even though I followed the instructions to the tee. Sent an email (on the pack) to the company but got no reply A total waste of money for a product this unreliable , It shouldn't be sold at all, in fact should be withdrawn from the market altogether. Listen up Maplin
Firstly it's not the Techniks film you might expect - it's a cheaper unbranded, unnamed alternative, which can be had elsewhere for a sheet. It is thinner than the original Techncis stuff. Unlike that brand thisfilm burns and sticks to your iron unless you lay a sheet of paper over it before ironing. I today produced 2 perfect pcbs from the off. My first tip is to get a good laser image by removing, shaking, tapping and re-inserting the toner cartridge before printing. You will get a 100% good image onto this film. Place a damp piece of card on a flat piece of wood, like a chopping board. Place yout pcb on top of the card. The card grips your pcb by suction stopping it moving as you iron. It also allows you to iron right up the edges of the pcb as it raises it slightly above the board. Place your film, emulsion side down on the pcb with a piece of ordinary printer paper on top to stop the film burning. Iron over paper on cotton setting in circular motions for 2-3 mins. No need to be mucking about with laminators. I got two perfect masked images and they did not move or blur during ironing. This film sticks to the copper very easily unlike the Techniks stuff. Onto etching: I used edinburgh etch on a test board yesterday. The Techniks mask easily stands up to that but this film did not. The fluid etched thru the mask leaving lots of miniscule holes in the masked copper. So today I diluted my Ediburgh etching fluid with 33% water before trying again with two more boards. I let these etch undisturbed at the bottom of my tray before gently brushing over the board and leaving to complete etching for approx another 10 mins. The result after removing the mask with fine wire wool is absolutely perfect. No overetching at all. No infills either. Btw DON'T use any chemical to remove the mask, e.g. acetone, alcohol etc. Chemicals like these do remove the mask very quickly indeed but they discolour the pcb board as the chemcial and masking agent are absorbed slightly into the fibreglass. This may, over time, make the boards deteriorate. Having produced two perfect boards with this film I'll be sticking to it in preference to the Techniks stuff as you can get 100% of that to stick down to the copper. The pcbs I did today are so precise and clean they look like they've been professionally milled in a pcb fab house. It's that good if you use it properly.
I have had some excellent results with this system and would like to share a few tips with people. But first do not hold me responsible if you damage any of your equipment doing this, it works well for me but that doesn't make it fool proof, also this is not a complete how too, just some suggestions to get good results. 1/ Use only what you need. First print the design directly onto normal paper, then cut a piece of Press'n'Peel slightly larger than required. Attach this with paper masking tape, powder blue side up, over the print out securing only the leading edge as it goes into the printer. Place the paper back into the tray and print again (you need to know which side your printer will print on). With luck and a bit of practice you will have perfect results without wasting loads of this expensive paper. Again ONLY USE PAPER TAPE, plastic tapes may ruin your printer 2/ Use a high res laser printer if possible (1200 x 1200 dpi), avoid any kinds of eco mode as they will apply less toner. 3/ Polish then clean with pure isopropyl or acetone thoroughly, wear gloves to avoid fingerprints. Don't use any cleaning products that might leave their own residue 4/ Use a laminating machine rather than an iron to apply heat. Pass the board through multiple times, too few and not everything will transfer when you come to peel. You'll need to experiment with this to see how many times works reliably, also dependant on board size. Also wear thick/oven gloves when doing this, the board is going to get pretty hot after the second or third pass. BEFORE trying this check whether you will actually be able to fit the board safely through, not all laminators can take the thickness of a PCB. 5/ This whole process works because laser toner is made of plastic which you are melting so it sticks to the copper board. If the board was well cleaned yet it still didn't all stick it's because not all the toner melted properly (you need to pass it through the laminator more next time). 6/ Always inspect the transfer before etching, and touch up as necessary with a fine marker.
The Press'n'Peel transfer film was somewhat effective for prototype testing. The blue ink side of the film is fragile and scratches easily, which isn't helped by it only being packaged in a plastic bag offering little protection in transit (I ordered from the web). The film is US letter sized rather than A4, so you have to fiddle with the paper tray settings on the printer. In transfer performance it did not work at all well with the first laser printer I tried (a Samsung colour printer) as the print wasn't dense enough and the transfer was very blotchy. Using a monochrome only laser printer gave much better results but it was still the case that every transfer was not perfect, with small parts of the design not peeling off the film and adhering to the copper properly, despite careful polishing and cleaning of the copper and measuring the temperature of the iron. Still, easier and cheaper than setting up a traditional photo process system for the odd simple PCB with fat tracks and pads. The resist, where transferred correctly, was strong against the etchant and could be soldered through quite easily on pads without having to remove it first.
QuestionsAsk a Question
6 of 6 Questions
Would this product be suitable with a HP Photo Smart c3180(all in one) in photocopy setting?
G Holmes said:
Will this product work with a Lexmark X4650 Printer in the photocopy mode? G Holmes
Would PCB Press & Peel work on brass? Does it suitable for electroetching? Thanks.
Would PCB Press & Peel work on sterling silver?
Would these sheets be suitable for producing soldering points for small-pitch components (0.5mm pin pitch) such as QFP IC's when used with a suitably accurate laser printer?
will this work with an inkjet printer
|Item code||Item name||Quantity||Price|
|AB15R||Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System||(100+)||£14.39|
|AB15R||Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System||(25+)||£15.35|
|AB15R||Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System||(10+)||£16.31|
|AB15R||Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System||(5+)||£17.27|
|AB15R||Press and Peel Film PCB Transfer System||(1+)||£19.99|
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